
Moruya - The Nightmare Continues
Easter 2001

| Tamara looked up at the unfamiliar ceiling and then scanned the room – Dad and Beth in the bed beside her and dry dusty clothes draped over the motel room chair – the same
motel room in Moruya where she laid her head down the night before - when Dad reassured her it wasn’t a nightmare, things would look better in the morning. But morning dawned, it was the same motel room and the Subaru was still lying broken, five
kilometres up a mountain fire trail, some thirty five kilometres distant. Moruya – the nightmare continues.
Tamara had journeyed from Brisbane to Canberra for Easter and jumped at the chance to do some ‘light’ 4Wdriving and camping in Deua National Park in the southern NSW hinterland near Bateman’s Bay. Weather was brilliant – clear blue skies - but the nights promised to be cold. The western approach into Deua was quite deceiving. Previous experience around the park fringes and the map suggested that the dirt track into Bendethera Camping Area was nothing to be concerned about. And indeed, most of it was 2WD. However, there were a few tricky bits, bordering on hard – more by the steepness than anything else – and they caught me a little by surprise. More than once Tamara got to experience that knot in the tummy when you have to back down a viciously steep, dry rocky hill, to have another go – even with a turbo under the bonnet of the L-Wagon. I took the hill a bit too casually and didn’t quite give it enough herbs. It was a good introduction to 4Wdriving for Tamara though - while she had heard of our previous exploits, she had not experienced first-hand the pleasure of taking on some seriously steep hills while rattling around in the back of a ‘little ‘ol Subaru’.
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Barring the dry crumbly hills, the drive-in was relatively uneventful. Hundreds of people had already established themselves in the camping area by the time we got there but the camping area was expansive and well wooded. We were able to find a secluded spot under shade, right near a well-worn Wombat burrow. We looked around and saw scores of camper trailers - and even a 2WD Holden – there had to be an easier way into the park than the way we came. |
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Soon, the tent was up, Beth and Tamara got a campfire going and dinner was on the cook. As night fell, a friendly possum descended from the tree above and the Wombat came out to graze. We were able to get to within about two metres and watch him forage under torch light without any major concern on his part. What could be better than this – a happy family camping under the stars in the Australian wilderness. |
| Next morning, we had a casual breakfast and then took a short drive to visit some old farm ruins left behind from the park’s colonial farming days. Then it was through a few mild creek crossings up to the parking area, ahead of a 4 km walk up and down some seriously steep hills to explore Bendethera Bat Caves. These proved to be quite a challenge – start ing with a tall, vertical ladder descent into the darkness. Not having great heads for heights, it was just as well it was pitch black inside. These particular caves are self-guided, very dark and very slippery, with a thick layer of bat guano covering everything – including the many ‘crawls’ required to reach the end of the cave system. In places, rangers and explorers of the past had anchored chains to assist in dragging yourself up some of the steeper slopes. As well as the spectacle of bats flying around and hanging from the ceiling, the caves featured some impressive limestone formations – uncluttered by the trappings of fences and wires, as seen in so many other caves these days. The trek to and from, combined with a lengthy and arduous exploration of the caves, made us hit the campfire nice and early with a ‘coldie’ that evening. | ![]() |
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Easter Sunday, and after relieving the Easter Wombat of Easter eggs that had mysteriously appeared at the entrance to his home, we headed off for a drive to explore some more of the park and visit Moruya – not realising we would return. The track out was narrow, windy and steep – but only for about 14 km. Turning at a T-junction, it opened out into almost highway conditions – no doubt the way most folk enter the park with their camper vans and ‘Toorak Tractors’. Nevertheless, Tamara still got to enjoy herself rattling around in the back and panicking when we encountered big 4Wdrives on impossible to pass hills and bends. The drive was capped with a late arrival back at camp and this time two Wombats to keep us company. |
| Day three dawned and we decided to head home via a 35 km fire trail that headed northeast
across razor sharp ridges toward the Deua River – it promised to be a most scenic route. And indeed it was. I rate it as about the best unspoilt mountain top drive we have ever been on – tree covered mountains as far as the eye can see with no
man-made objects (other than the track in front and the occasional trig point) to undermine the beauty of it all. The track was incredibly steep in places – scary almost – and occasional glimpses of the ocean in the distance added to the
spectacle of it all.
On this track we saw very few vehicles (most had turned onto the ‘highway’ toward Moruya) but we did pass two Landrover Discoverys - one towing a camper in the face of some impossible hills – difficult even for us, unencumbered by trailer. We learned later that they had major difficulties getting the van up some of the hills and one vehicle ended up breaking down. In club parlance, this trail would be rated medium with some hard to very hard spots – mainly because of the steepness of the dry, rocky descents, on what was essentially an unmaintained fire trail. Deua NP, or the vast majority of it, is due to be locked up in October and the fire trails will no longer be accessible. Road authorities are getting in early by not maintaining the trails in advance of the closure. |
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The hole
Snow Plowin'
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It was on this fire trail, in a poorly maintained section, that our Moruya nightmare began. We were coming down a very steep sand and gravel hill with three large ‘whoa boys’ cut across the track. On cresting the second, we lost visual contact with the ground in front and fell unsighted into a big hole carved out by large 4WDrives that had scrambled up the hill in the other direction. Ordinarily, it would have been an adrenaline rush and then carry on regardless but this time the car made a sickly crunching noise and turned into the bank, defying all steering commands. A quick nappy change and a close inspection revealed that the bottom of the RH steering knuckle had come down heavily on a rocky edge and had shattered around the ball joint pinch bolt. The wheel was leaning in on the strut and pointing outward at about 30 degrees – snow-plowing relative to the other. This was a major breakdown and in a really bad location – half way up a seriously steep hill and in a blind spot for descending traffic.
Wheel alignment needed
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| To make safe the situation, I opted to snow plow the car down the hill to a relatively flat spot and then review the situation – not that there was much to review – I clearly needed some parts that were not in the boot. We were in a marginal cell phone area and after many broken calls, ascertained that NRMA wasn’t interested in helping us – a country area and they didn’t have a 4WD! Fortunately, it was Easter Monday, and before long a convoy of big 4Wdrives arrived. I’m told weeks normally go by without anyone travelling that trail. |
The cavalry arrives
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| To cut a long story short, we hitched a lift into Moruya where we spent the night in a motel
and then the next two days recovering the vehicle. We scoured the coast trying to locate parts (there are next to no L-Series in the wreckers down here – they are all on the roads) and eventually had to return to Canberra to scavenge parts from the
front cut we used for the turbo conversion. Through a comedy of errors – leaving the car keys down at the main road, taking the wrong (LH) strut assembly up the hill, and then discovering turbo axles are thicker than standard axles, we ended up
doing five ascents before getting the car down under its own power.
My brother, who assisted in the recovery, gasped when he saw the steepness of the hill for the first time from the front of the Land Cruiser rescue vehicle (courtesy of the local Beaurepair dealer) but was almost panic-stricken when we began the descent in the Subaru. I don’t think he has the nerves for this sort of thing – at least not in a Subaru. So the nightmare did continue – but not forever. We got the car down – albeit with an extra day or two off work and a lot of messing around. I have not heard of a steering knuckle breaking like this b efore. I’m not sure if it was just bad luck landing on the rock or if I contributed to the disaster by fitting a dual suspension up front, making it too rigid to recoil from heavy shocks. Had this happened in the Simpson Desert or Cape York, it would have been a real show-stopper. For long club trips such as these it may pay to have at least one RH and one LH steering knuckle among the group of travellers – just in case. Food for thought. Moruya – the nightmare is over. Danny Williams SC412 |
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