THE VICTORIAN HIGH COUNTRY

21 April to 6 May 2001

DAY 1.

The alarm went off at 3 am, giving us an hour for final packing. Another two hours to get cheaper Queensland fuel, breakfast, and to travel down to Murwillumbah to meet up with members from the Tweed Valley 4WD club for a 6 am start.

We met our trip leaders, Bob and Christine Merrin with their tried and tested Landcruiser Ute, Keith and Jennifer Taylor in their recently purchased Toyota Prado with camper in tow and Peter and Maryke Green in the Landrover Defender with Peter’s camper on its maiden trip.

Three other couples would be met further down the track, as they had already been on the road a week or two. Among these were Jeff and Fay with Fay’s brother Doc., in an 80 series Cruiser with caravan, Col and Di in a short wheel base Pajero with caravan and Brian and Gayanne in another 80 series Cruiser with campervan. Other fellow travellers should have been Merv and Colleen, but Colleen got an unexpected hospital stay in Lithgow with deep vein thrombosis.

It was raining lightly as we left Murwillumbah with the Dyna as Tail-end. Our first stop was Grafton for breakfast, (Maccas again) at around 8.30 am. Peter is having trouble fine tuning his van’s electric brakes. From here it was on to Armidale via route 78 which has a windy gravel section, keeping traffic volume down. We were just back onto the tar when our trip leader was told by second in convoy that his right hand rear tyre was looking rather low. Interestingly, Bob is running BF Goodrich Allterrains on his heavily loaded vehicle, as was I on our last trip, where we had 15 punctures. A quick fix wad repair was fitted, a little inflation, and we were on our way again.

Armidale was absolutely beautiful with its splendour of autumn colours. From yellow to red, orange, maroon, brown and beige. So beautiful, we hungered for more, so we stopped for lunch at Thunderbird Rock. On through Tamworth and Gunnedah where the others got fuel. Travelling west we were heading into an electrical storm, which we hoped would hold off until we had found and set up camp. We soon turned south and headed on to go beyond the Black Stump and finely set up camp in Coolah Caravan Park. A very pleasant spot alongside a babbling brook. We cooked, ate and showered and were in bed by 8.00 pm. as the rain fell, and the sky thundered.

DAY 2. Coolah to Goulburn

We started out at 7.15 am, headed for Lithgow to visit Colleen. We stopped just short of Mudgee at 8.00 am to ring Merv on the mobile-phone, so I got out to see why my right hand indicator wasn’t working. Shock, Horror, the whole storage box is missing. The down side of being Tail-end. It was a quick “I’ll see you guys in Lithgow”, and Patricia and I were headed back down the road toward Coolah looking for my storage box. No luck. We headed back toward Mudgee at a greatly reduced pace looking very hard for any sign of the fallen box. We came across the farmer, John Richard, who had earlier picked the storage box up off the road, Mudgee side of a little wooden bridge crossing the Talbragar River.

Our joy soon turned to disappointment when we found that the box was empty. The box had been rifled of ALL my tools, jack, wheel brace, tent pegs and ropes, etc. This was when John offered the use of his shed and tools to refit the box to the truck. Thank you.

Four and a half hours after we had left the others we were back at Mudgee. A phone call was made to re-establish contact with the group, who agreed to wait for us to catch up. They had had their visit with Colleen and driven the local sites with Merv.

Peter has had more trouble with his van’s brakes. Turns out to have been wired up incorrectly. We all fuelled up in Lithgow and were back in convoy headed for Goulburn. Through Oberon and Porters Retreat and we’ve got dirt road again. It was wet and already dark when we got into Goulburn at 6.00 pm. We sat up till 9.30 pm chatting, getting to know everyone.

DAY 3. Goulburn to Tom Groggin.

On the road just before 7.00 am we headed for Cooma, bypassing Canberra. We have seen lots of poplars in their autumn colours along the way. Everyone stopped in Cooma for supplies. We bought scotch, a doormat and an umbrella, while others bought fuel and smoko. The truck’s starter motor is playing up and I hope it’s not a sign of things to come. We travelled on until Berridale before finding a great morning tea spot amongst the autumn colours at around 10.00 am.

Through Jindabyne and on to Thredbo where we had plenty of time to see the ski slopes without snow while we were held up at the road works. They were under-pinning the road, right above the land-slip site of ‘97. The road climbed some more before going down the other side of the mountain, (12 km, 6 km, 5 km winding road) into the valley and Tom Groggin campground where Jeff, Fay, Doc, Col, Di, Brian and Gayanne were camped. Lots of names for Patricia and I to remember. We arrived at about 2.00 pm. and hadn’t had lunch yet, so it was Tom Groggin on the Murray River for the night.

We had lots of kangaroos for company in the large grassy campground. There were a few wombat holes around the place but the wombats themselves were not to be seen. Us newcomers to the area did a short drive to the Tom Groggin Hut that afternoon which involved a crossing of the river at about half a metre deep. The huts scattered around the National Parks of the area provide shelter, with a fire, for anybody caught out in the weather. Very cosy indeed. I could even get romantic.

DAY 4 Tom Groggin to Charlies Creek on the Davies Plain Track.

Set out at 7.40 am with caravans in tow. The first river crossing presented no problems. The second crossing with its steeper descent, saw Jeff’s van’s jockey wheel get popped out and doorstep get bent. On the opposite bank was a group of stockmen camped under a large tarp, cooking sausages and bacon at 10.00 am. With the rain they had had, the spokesman informed us that we could NOT get through. He even went as far as to bet the family dairy farm that we wouldn’t. Bob couldn’t readily think of anything to take up the bet with, but the stockmen all turned their eyes toward Bob’s truck, (or was it Christine).

Bob and Chris went off on a recce, and were back in about half an hour with no problems struck. The stockman refused to give us the fresh supplies and rum that we offered to take up the track to his boss camped at the Davies Plain Hut. We told him that we would be back to claim the “Farm” and headed off on our merry way.

We encountered numerous hills which required Bob to snatch the cars with campers to the top, (Defender and Dyna excluded). We lunched on the highest point of the track among the clouds, in the cold wind. A quick cup of soup and we’re away again. The thermometer has come down to 1 1/2 degrees, so the windows are up and the heaters are on.

We’re now travelling across the top, losing a little altitude along the way. On one occasion, the down hill was that slippery that even with van brakes locked Jeff’s van jack-knifed him across the track on top of a woe-boy. The Victorians have humungous woe-boys. The van was tied back to the Prado on top of the hill, so that Jeff could drive the ‘Cruiser straight and was lowered the last bit. The Dyna was then positioned as the anchor and proceeded to lower all the other vehicles down.

Another creek crossing and long slippery ascent with snatch ropes and we had reached the Davies Plain Hut where the other stockmen were camped. Just like in the movie, the half dozen stockmen were sat around the campfire with their hats pulled down over their eyes and their Driza-Bone coats pulled tight about them. They were very surprised to see us, and asked whether we all had winches to have gotten through. The head stockman was rather annoyed that the man, that he had contracted, could not deliver his food to where we had brought caravans through.

We had a chat about this and that and the track ahead. We had done the hard bit and only had one jump-up left to challenge us before we reached the Charlies Creek Hut campground at about 3pm. We had only covered 45 kilometres in 7 1/2 hours, and had a lot of fun doing it. We set up camp once again and got a good fire going. Fay read some poetry and a few jokes were told before the rain started and everyone went to bed.

DAY 5 Charlies Creek to Omeo.

From here it was an easy track down to Limestone road, through Benambra and on to Omeo for lunch. It was decided to camp here the night giving us time to unhook the vans and take a drive to Mt Hotham for a look. We didn’t get much of a look because the cloud rolled in as we got there.

It was a quiet drive back to the Omeo Caravan Park again, with its autumn trees and little stream. Our first deer were to be seen on the opposite bank of the stream. Pat then spotted the kids’ playground so the pair of us went and had a play. Happy hour and then dinner were had in the Caravan Park’s communal kitchen, keeping us out of the cool breeze that was blowing.

DAY 6 Omeo to South Tambo

No early start today. Headed for South Tambo Crossing via Cassillis, Swifts Creek and Ensay. We missed the place, ah, spot by 20 km. We did an about-face and this time found the sign after having received directions from a local. The campsite that he had recommended turned out to be a beaut. Jeff, Doc, Fay, Col and Di decided to try a little trout fishing while the more adventurous of us would go for a drive up the Haunted Stream near by.

We found the Haunted Stream Track turn off only to find the gate locked, Private Property.

Bob and Chris took us a few more kilometres north towards Ensay and chose a forestry road marked on their map. We immediately started to climb with the road having a precarious drop-off on the driver’s side. We soon stopped to a lookout marked on the map. Oh, what a view. According to my map we were still some 50 odd kilometres from the coast, as the crow flies. We were that high that not only could we see the sea, we could even make out the ships on the horizon.

We continued on looking for something more challenging and found Elphic Break a track marked on Bob’s map. The track followed the spur down, and down some more. There were no signs of the track having been used by anything other than a dozer. We ended up on the bottom in a dry creek-bed. Before us was a very, very long climb up, steeper than the one we’d just come down.

Bob’s first attempt got him, maybe, a hundred metres up, almost to the first woe-boy before the tyres lost traction. Backing down looked like fun. NOT. Bob’s second attempt was three metres shorter than the first. A decision had to be made. To back track up the loose shaly hill we’d come down or try the track ahead that appeared damp and offer better traction.

The next attempt was given to Peter and his Defender with its diff locks. Peter made it all the way to the top first go. It was Keith’s turn next. Following in Peter’s tracks Keith went up as far as a very large woe-boy from where he could offer assistance should anyone need it. Brian then went up to Keith, leaving Bob and myself at the bottom. Bob was already letting air out of his tyres for more grip. Bob also went up as far as Keith had. Now it was time to see if the 4 1/2 ton of Dyna and camper would make it under its own steam. I chose first gear low and set off. The truck lost some traction where Bob’s first two attempts had got him, but with all four wheels turning managed to keep moving upward. I reached the others waiting for me, but I wasn’t going to stop now and kept on going to where Peter and Maryke were waiting. The others followed us up. What was all the fuss about? Bob resumed the lead and we were back on to the formed forestry track without any more heart starters.

It wasn’t long before we were at a T-intersection marked Haunted Stream. To the left the sign read “Wrong Way - Private Property”. We went right, the upper half of the Haunted Stream track. We would do at least part of what we had set out to do in the first place. The track followed the stream, crossing it over and over again. The stream’s banks were full of tree ferns, ferns and mosses. At each crossing of the stream was another waterfall or cascade. Lots of photo opportunities to be had. The track notes had stated that there were only 45 creek crossing on the track. No one had counted, but we were all sure that we had crossed more times than that.

It was getting late and time to find the shortest way back to camp. Driving back along the formed forestry road we passed Elphic Track. A few hundred metres further on was the Elphic Break that we had taken. Was that our mistake, Break instead of Track? It wasn’t long before we were back at camp to hear that those who stayed behind had had drama of their own. With the boys fishing and the girls relaxing, the fire had crept through the grass, and wasn’t spotted until it was directly under Col’s van. Luckily the fire was put out before any damage could be done. Another early night was needed after all that gear changing and steering-wheel turning. Another day lay ahead.

DAY 7 Tambo to Lakes Entrance

On the road at 8.30am - we have left Jeff and Col and Co back at camp, they feel that they have done enough 4 wheel driving for this trip. A quick toilet stop up the road a bit, where we left the tar and headed off toward Mt. Elizabeth, into the forestry logging area. It wasn’t long before we came to the area being logged, where we had to wait to have a tree cleared off the road. When they log an area, all the trees are felled but for the dead ones. Why they are left we didn’t ask. Maybe it’s for the possums.

Further on, the track had had less use, making the going slow with Bob and Chris having to get out quite regularly to clear the track. It was on this Mt. Elizabeth section of track near the top, that Col, down at Bairnsdale some 45 km away, heard us chatting on the UHF radios and joined in, letting us know what the tourists had been up to. Almost at the bottom again, when I stop to check out a patch of freshly turned soil. I went for my shovel to have a dig only to find my shovel missing in action. Bummer.

Buchan South and we’re back on the tar headed for Buchan and the Buchan Caves. We all booked a Fairy Cave tour, while Bob raced off to fetch us some fantastic pies for lunch. The cave had narrow passages and was very confined making the formation viewing close at hand. After the tour we all bought afternoon tea at the local cafe and were entertained by a very loud biker who was very out of place as proprietor. We then headed off once again for Lakes Entrance.

It started raining before we got into town. It’s dark and wet, so we pick the first caravan park and set up the bare minimum. We all went to the local fish and chip shop for dinner and had another early night.

DAY 8 Lakes Entrance to Crooked River Road Camp

Bob gives us until midday to do our shopping and to see the sites of the Entrance. The Dyna is fueled up and the engine oil topped. We all get together and have lunch at Mt. Balky lookout with views of the lake, which has, reportedly, 21 rivers flowing into it. Patricia has bought herself half a kilo of prawns and poured herself a wine. From here, overlooking the Lakes Entrance itself and Bass Strait, as many as nine oilrigs can seen be on the horizon.

After having had lunch we headed off in the direction of Bairnsdale, where Bob gets fuel. Moving on we soon turn off to visit Col’s mate, Carp and his wife Wyn. Doc Carpenter likes to do a bit of deer hunting and has the trophies to prove it. We have a cup of tea and get the run down on the best areas to drive. We check out his deer and his restored Army vehicles before moving out at 3pm for the Crooked River.

We followed the Wonnangatta River up into the mountains, admiring the valley views. Well the women were, us guys had to keep our eyes on the rather narrow windy road. It was just on dark when we found ourselves a campsite. This would be our home for the next four nights, so my camper was unloaded.

DAY 9 Crooked River

Minor adjustments were made to the camp in the morning, before we took on the Billy Goat Track. It was a long rocky steep track with some good views. Once at the top we headed toward the Fire tower we had seen on the way up. From here we had magnificent 360 degree views. We back tracked down to camp for an early happy hour. Bob found a 3 metre long hollow log that was a good half metre in diameter for the fire. There’s nothing like a good fire to keep you warm.

DAY 10

Another lie-in, with bacon and eggs for brekky. Bob has another flat tyre that gets a quick fix. At 9.30am we drove out on the Wonnangatta Road, left at Eaglevale along the Wombat Range Track, DOWN Herne Spur Track and along Wonnangatta Track to the Wonnangatta Homestead ruins where we had lunch. To make a loop of the day’s trip we took Riley Creek Track, up Water Spur Track, across the top on Tea Tree Spur Track and back down to the Crooked River Road at the rickety bridge 6 km from camp. The 100 km took us eight hours to drive.

DAY 11

We’re behind the wheel at 9am, with Brian and Gayanne calling it a rest day. Gayanne promises to have a damper ready for us at about 3pm. Back at the rickety bridge we turn toward Talbotville and climb. Peter noted that we had been climbing for 4 km and were still climbing. The track brings us out on top on the Dargo High Plains Road. We went south, DOWN into Dargo on the bitumen. Dargo is one of Victoria’s most isolated towns. A very nice spot with the autumn coloured trees lining the road, the motel with its log cabins and the quaint corner pub. Patricia buys herself a Victorian High County hat pin.

We back track 5 km and head northwest to find the Dogs Grave. We travel through a beautiful valley of walnut trees and country cottages and then start to climb once more. We turn left onto the Omeo/Dargo road and find the Dogs Grave turnoff 14 km further on. The dog “Boney” had died and was buried back in 1863 by his owner. A fancy granite headstone has since been erected in memory of “Boney” and all the working dogs of the area. We headed back towards Dargo taking a different route. Then it was back UP the hill on the Bitumen to turn DOWN Jungle Creek Falls Road the way we had come up. This track would be a good shortcut out of the area tomorrow, but the woe-boys are way too big for the campers hooked up on standard tow-balls.

It is decided that we need to get some exercise and do the 1 1/2 hour walk down to the Jungle Creek Falls. We called Brian on the UHF to make sure that afternoon tea wouldn’t be spoiled.

The walk is done in quick time, 50 minutes, but it was not easy. Coming down the hill the truck has developed a knock in the suspension somewhere. I stopped and took a look but found nothing. Well it’s back to camp for a cup of tea and damper. Maryke and Pat cooked us a lamb roast in the camp oven.

DAY 12 Crooked River to Albury

All packed up by 8.45am. We stop at the Wonnnangatta Caravan Park for the others to buy fuel. On the road to Dargo we pass our third dead wombat. Through Dargo and UP the long steep climb again. It just goes on forever. Over the top and we’re back on the gravel in the fog looking for the Blue Rag Ridge track. The track is supposed to be a popular hard one so the campervans are left on the side of the road and we start the climb. There is a long steep pinch at the top, but nothing hard about it. Once at the top we can see why the track is so popular. We are above the clouds and have 360 degree views, with the roofs of Mount Hotham to the northwest. A bite to eat and as we find we have mobile phone service, we make a quick phone call to the kids.

We joined the bitumen at Mt Saint Bernard and drove down the Great Alpine Road through Harrietville in its autumn colours. We’re 5 km short of Bright when we turn east toward Tawonga, stopping at a lookout to take in the views. Bob has heard that Jeff and Col are camped in Albury so a bee-line is made for the caravan park. We arrived just on dusk, and caught up with Jeff and Co. as to where the tourists had been and got up to. After hearing about all we had missed, and with a day up our sleeves, it is decided that we will back track some and see the sights. Bob and Christine have decided to continue straight home to get in some quality time with their son who would be leaving for Kalgoorlie in a few days. We ate out for tea, each in different directions.

DAY 13 Albury to Bright

Pat and I left the park early to try to find a truck wreckers where we might be able to replace the jack and wheel brace missing from the storage box. I was putting air into the tyres, having finished with the 4 wheel driving, when I found the source of the knock of a few days ago. The right hand side main leaf spring was broken, leaving only the spring clamps to hold the whole lot together. The wreckers were found, a jack and wheel brace were bought but no joy with a spring replacement. We all met up at the Tourist Information Centre before Brian and Gayanne were made trip leaders and we headed for Rutherglen and the All Saints winery. After a taste of the wines and a look around we headed off to Milawa and the Brown Brothers Winery. Some more wine and it was on to the Milawa Cheese Factory. There was no Strawberry or Chocolate cheese on offer here so I left the tasting to the others. Patricia and I had found some wonderful flavours of cheese in Tasmania.

From here it was over to the Mustard shop and then next door to the Bakery for afternoon tea. Time waits for no man and we wanted to camp the night in Bright. It was getting dark as we pulled into Bright, and were lucky to find a few unpowered sites left in the town’s caravan park right on a mountain stream. Being the Thursday night before the Bright Autumn Festival, the town was rather full. That evening we all walked the town and did a little shopping. Patricia and I were out of Scotch again, while Jennifer found a couple of sewing machine miniatures for her collection. That night, it was decided that we would stay another night in Bright, giving us time to see the Lavender Farm, Mt. Beauty and Falls Creek.

DAY 14 Bright

Up bright and early, I made a “Bush Fix” on the broken spring with some timber and some wire, courtesy of Keith. We all walked the town again and met back in camp for 10am. Bright’s autumn colours are definitely worth celebrating. Keith and Jennifer then offered Patricia and I a ride in the Prado for the day. This we gratefully accepted as the road up to Falls Creek would be a windy one that the patched-up Dyna didn’t need to take. The girls loved the Lavender Farm, while the blokes admired its owner built two story log-cabin home/shop.

On to Mt. Beauty for a quick look around and lunch that we had bought back in Bright. Back in the cars and on the way up to Falls Creek where Keith and Jennifer had had a skiing holiday.

The place looked a little different without the snow and had Keith a bit confused as to which way to go. We followed Peter’s radioed directions to the top of the slopes for the grand look and then headed back to Bright and camp. We all ate out at the pub that night and walked home.

DAY 15 Bright to Bulahdelah

Up with the early birds, we’ve got a lot of ground to cover. Brian being the truckie, was asked to lead the way home. Up to Albury and the Hume Highway, stopping at Beechworth and its famous bakery. We bought a “Scandinavian” loaf, an ever so light whole-grain bread. We notice once again that there are a lot of country churches for sale, the going price of which we have no idea. Beechworth is a beautiful historical town, but we have no time to look.

We had another quick stop at Holbrook to look at the submarine, “Ottway” and fuel up the Dyna. Our lunch stop is with the “Dog on the Tuckerbox”, and Pat buys another hat pin. It wasn’t long before we were in the traffic and the traffic lights on Sydney’s outskirts with Brian keeping the convoy tight. Peter has noticed how friendly the natives are. Little does he know that a certain person has put a “Just Married - honk as you pass” sign on the back of his van. We all got a good laugh out of that one.

We were on the freeway north of Sydney when Patricia and I leave the convoy to see our son Marcus at Woy Woy. We would catch up with the others later in Bulahdelah. We spent an hour with Marcus and headed off again. Coming in to Bulahdelah we could just make out Peter on the UHF but couldn’t raise him. In the caravan park we found Brian and Gayanne who have only just finished setting up. Keith and Peter have decided to drive on through the night. The four of us chat a while before going to bed.

DAY 16 Bulahdelah to Jimboomba

I have decided to check the oil levels of the gearboxes for the run home. Moved out at 7am with Brian in front and the Dyna as tail-end. At 8.45am Gayanne got a call from Jennifer to say that they had got home safely at around 4am. We had morning tea in Macksville by the river. We are nearing Grafton when we have a fuel problem. The inline filters are cleaned and we’re on our way.

From Grafton it’s on to Casino and Kyogle where we part company, with Brian and Gayanne headed for Uki and us headed for the Lions Road to take us to Beaudesert and Jimboomba for about 4pm.

We had a fantastic time. Thanks guys!

Patricia and I plan to do the trip again some day with the Subaru Club.

Arnold and Patricia Schoemaker (SC419)