Preventative Maintenance

Before Trips – If a problem is going to occur it will probably happen when 4Wdriving, because all systems are put under more strain.

Things to check -

Under The Bonnet -
Check all fluids levels, and for leaks – under the bonnet and on the ground under the car, radiator hoses are firm, and are not soft and puffy around the clamps. The radiator should be filled to the right level and with the correct coolant, not just plan tap water. Fan and air conditioner belts are not worn or cracked and are at the right tension. Check the battery water level, only top up with demineralised, distilled or rain water, make sure it is firmly mounted, and there is no acid build up around the terminals [wash off with hot water and backing soda] and then grease. Check that no oil has dripped on to the sump guard, there are no smells of hot oil when running. At operating temperature check the electric radiator fans are cycling on and off.

Cam Belts - The cam belt on the overhead cam EA 82 engine is scheduled to be changed every 75,000 kms. On the later EJ series engines from 1989 to the current engines, the cam belt or the 2 cam belts for double overhead cams engines are scheduled to be changed every 100,000 kms. When this service is done all the idler pulleys and tensioners should be thoroughly checked, as well as the cam and oil pump seals. The water pump on EJ series should be checked. If there are signs of wear and leaks these parts should be replaced. Complete cam belts and idler kits are available.

Under The Car
Driveshafts – Check the front and rear drive shaft boots for tears and splits and the clamps are tight, check that there is no fresh black CV or DOJ grease flicked up on the engine and fire wall from the inner DOJ’s, in the front inner guard and suspension arm from the outer CV joints, rear suspension arms and rear tailgate from the rear DOJ’s – carry rags, stockings, race tape, cable ties, tube of silicone sealant for emergency repairs.

Tyres – check all the tyres and spare for the correct pressure, damage to the inner and outer side walls, valve stems, valves have caps are fitted, all the tyres including the spare should be same size, all are wearing evenly, all the wheel nuts are tight. Always carry blocks of wood for the jack to take up the extra high of a lift kit. Another good idea is to carry pipe or similar lever to fit over the wheel nut brace to gain extra leverage for tight wheel nuts.

Brakes – Check on the firmness and travel of the pedal. If there is a scraping sound when applying the brakes, it could be the pad wear indicator, which means the pads are low and need replacing. For models that have rear drum brakes, make sure the manual and later model self adjusters are working properly, it leads to longer shoe lift.

Suspension – With the car jacked up check all mounting bolts for tension, bushes for wear and tear by looking and using a leveller to see for excess movement, and listening for noises when driving.

Exhausts – Check all the mounting brackets for damage and the joints for leaks.

What Noise Is That

CV’s and DOJ’s – If there is a clicking noise when turning corners it is usually the outer CV joints. When corning because of the load and weight transfer, if the rhs clicks on a left turn it is the right CV, if its the lhs on a right turn it’s the left. If there is a clicking noise when accelerating and decelerating especially when cold it is the inner DOJ’s. Complete driveshafts [outer CV and Inner DOJ] can be changed from side to side to reverse their rotation to stop clicking going forward. Also genuine DOJ’s inner bearing race can be rotated 180 degrees to gain a new wearing surface.

Wheel Bearings, Ball Joints, Tie Rods, Suspension Bushes – Because we drive on left hand side of the road, most of these components on the lhs of the car, will show signs of wear first, because of the road camber and there are more bumps, pot holes, and the rough edges of the road.

Wheel Bearings – Front – If there is a wearing grating noise when turning corners and going straight ahead. If the noise goes away when turning left it is the left side, which is the opposite to CV’s, because the weight goes off the inside wheel. It is the same for the right side when turning right. Also jack the car up, with your hands in a vertical position move the wheel to see for excess movement. Where the bearing seals run the surface should be checked for roughness. As a guide using your finger nail, if the surface feels rough, it needs resleving so the seals work properly.

Rear Wheel Bearings -- Use the same procedure as the front.

Front Ball Joints – If there is a rattling noise when cornering and hitting bumps the front lower ball joint could be worn. On the side where the noise is coming from, jack the car up then using a long lever look for movement. Also check all the ball joints dust cap for tears and leaks.

Front Suspension Bushes – You need to be out of the car and watch for wheel movement while someone applies the brakes at low speed.

Rear Suspension and Shock Bushes – Listen for rattles when driving, with the car jacked up, using your hands and a long lever you should be able to find the worn bushes. These days most of the main Suspension Specialist stores have shaker machines that shake the car, so worn ball joints, tie rods, and bushes can easily be found.

Steering Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends – If you feel the steering has more free play than usual, the steering tie rods and tie rod ends [ball joints] could be worn. Jack up the car, start on the lhs, which will wear first, put your hands in a horizontal position move the wheel and watch for movement on the steering shaft [tie rod] and tie rod ends.

Tail Shaft Universal Joints – On MY models in FWD when accelerating if there is a tingling metallic sound the rear uni joint is worn, the front uni joint should also be checked. On later models with the split shaft there will be rumbling noises and vibrations. With your hands move the shaft up and down looking for movement. Also disconnect the shaft from the diff, turn and feel for roughness.

Spares to Carry – Weight and room is the main problem here. A good tool kit including a hub nut socket, silicone sealant, cable ties, universal hose clamps, electrical wire and connectors, assorted nuts ,bolts washers, tie wire, tape, rags, hand cleaner, engine and gearbox oil, coolant, brake fluid, top and bottom radiator hoses -- universal hoses are available, heater hoses -- a piece of straight hose the correct size will do, fan belts, CV and DOJ boots, clamps, grease – universal fitting boots are available. For long distance trips carry extra spares like -- drive shafts, wheel bearing kits, cam belt kit, fuel pump, ball joints, tie rods, suspension bushes, torsion bars.