Disclaimer: Technical information given or disclosed in this website is given with the best intent and is advisory only. No responsibility is taken by the the Subaru 4WDrive Club of Queensland or its members for any damage or injury caused by any vehicle modifications made, or by the use of any products or the adoption of any procedures mentioned in this website.

Lift Kits

One of the main modifications that can be done is add a lift kit, now available with full (Queensland) Department of Transport approval or, if you choose, a virtually identical unapproved kit is available. Kits that are currently  available include 2" (approved) and 3" (unapproved) kits for MY Series, and 2" (approved) kits for L Series, Libertys, Outbacks and Foresters.

See article Lifting a Subaru - Installing a Lift Kit

Boot Protection

For better drive shaft boot protection, bigger rubber flaps can be fitted. All MY models have boot protector brackets front and rear. The standard protectors can be replaced with bigger flaps and for even greater protection they may be cut out of thicker conveyor belt material. The rear flaps can be replaced by two 450 mm x 200 mm rectangular pieces. On the LHS, a new bracket will be required due to intrusion by the exhaust. Because of the extra clearance on lifted cars, C shaped straps mounted off the rear diff carrier can be made for the rear inners, whilst L shaped brackets can be welded to the suspension arms to protect the outer boots. This design allows for greater protection as the flaps are closer to the boot. The 85‑86 L Series had rear brackets fitted, but for all models from then on the brackets were deleted. For all Libertys, Outbacks and Foresters, there is not enough clearance to fit front protectors because of their front mounted sway bars. 

See article Protect 'Dem Boots

Diff Protection

Rear diff carriers on lifted models can be reinforced by welding on metal ribbing. After reinforcing the diff carrier, the lower edge of the diff carrier can be cut off on the RHS to gain extra clearance.

MY Front Guards

To avoid the infamous MY front guard dents, the lower edge of the front guards can be cut away. There are two ways of doing the cut. The first, and cheaper, method involves using the lower edge of the bumper as a line and cutting away using a jigsaw or hacksaw to the front over-rider, followed by painting the cut or fitting rubber edging. The second method is to got the job done more professionally by making two cuts. The first cut is along the bottom edge of the guard, and the second cut follows the line of the bumper bar. The bottom edge is welded on, then painted. The finished job follows the original  line but is higher.

Wheels

For vehicles with standard 3.3" wheels, you can fit higher profile 13" 85x75 tyres or fit 14" rims with tyres around the 185 or 195 x 70 size. Note, however, that fitting higher profile tyres affects your speedometer readings. After market 14" spoke rims fit all MY and L Series, however their off set is incorrect, causing the wheels to sit out out from the guards (more so on the L Series than on the MY Series). The best option for both models is 14" spoke rims with the correct off set, manufactured by Scorpion Automotive. Peugeot 504 14" rims also fit, but they can be difficult to balance and must be balanced on car. Otherwise, cut the centre hubs out and have a centre adaptor made so that the rims can fit on a balancing machine. The standard 13" centre caps can be refitted to the cut out centres. Another option Is aftermarket 14" alloy rims, which are available, but their offset is slightly wider than standard.

Suspension

For all models, after market firmer and higher springs are available as well as strut inserts and complete strut legs which provide longer travel. MY rear shock absorbers can be replaced by long travel short wheel base Landcruiser units. Pump up shocks are useful for load carrying and can get you out of trouble if the car suffers a broken torsion bar. 

For extra load carrying capacity, rear coil springs can be fitted in between the bump stops on L Series sedans and to MY Series. Cut the coils to size a little longer than the gap between the bump stops at full suspension drop. They are kept in place by fitting them over the bump stop bracket. 

L-Series can be fitted with a dual mount bracket because of their standard coil over shock unit. On L 85‑86 models with adjustable rear shocks, fit exhaust clamps to the adjusting collars to stop them spreading and collapsing under loaded conditions. 

A cheap method for firming up the front suspension is to fit a double shock system using rear X series Falcon stocks. The mounting brackets are made of 100mm x 100mm x 6mm right angle plate, with welded on gusset, baited to the bottom of the strut leg with exhaust clamps. The top strut flower mount should have two formed washers, one placed on the inside of the tower and the other under the shock mounting nut. The top mount on the L Series and reinforcing plate should be welded in place. 

See article Lifting a Subaru - Installing a Lift Kit

Vital Component Protection

Differential Breather

For rear diff breathers, remove the existing breather top, file away the lip on the breather stem then fit garden hose (or similar diameter hose) over and tighten with a screw up clamp. Then cut a slot out of the diff carrier above the breather so there Is clearance for the hose, and run the hose over to the RHS rear panel. Use a wiring loom grommet to fit it into the rear panel, loop the open end and cable tie a piece of foam over the end. 

Gearbox Breather

For the gearbox, clamp a hose over the dip stick filler tube, run the hose up to the fire wall, fit a short piece of alloy tube so the dip stick will fit into it and fix it in place with cable ties.

Distributor

Waterproof the distributor by removing the cap, placing silicone sealant around the leads and smearing some oil around the cap seal. Let the sealant set for a few minutes before refitting the cap and clamping up the distributor. The bottom drain hole on the distributor base can be fitted with a small pipe. Seal this pipe In place and then run it back into the cabin via a grommet in the fire wall. 

See article Bright Sparks Don't Get Wet Feet

Bell Housing

Seal up the gap around the inspection plate at the bottom of the bell housing with silicone sealant to stop sand and grit entering on high centered tracks*. The sand enters this gap, working its way into and around the rear engine seal which leads to oil leaks. The job is easier with the engine removed ‑ first seal up the front gap around the fly wheel, then once the engine is bolted up to the gearbox, seal the plate around the gearbox while there is still clearance. The job can also be done with the engine in place - loosen the engine mounts and exhaust and jack up the engine so there is enough clearance around the plate to gain access for seating.

* There is a small difference of opinion between Subaru clubs on this issue. The southern clubs, used to crossing more water courses and travelling less on beaches that the Queenslanders, prefer not to seal the bell housing so as to allow collected water to drain - your choice !

See article Sand Proofing The Rear Engine Seal

Gearbox Whine

To stop gearbox whine on steep climbs in low range, overfill the gearbox with an extra ¼ - ½  litre of oil. At the normal oil level, there is not enough oil to cover all the gears on steep climbs.

Bull Bars and Tow Bars

There is a large range of bull bars and rear bars made for all models, including rear tyre and Jerry can carriers. When fitting front bars, make sure the front tow hooks are refitted. It is a good idea to fit the open type hooks off bigger 4WD models. For the rear, correctly fitted tow bars provide extra under body protection.

See article Roo Bars

Rust Prevention

For rust prevention, regularly check all sill and door drain holes around the car by pushing wire through the holes. Over time, these drain holes can block up with dirt or be damaged by 4WD work. Check other areas around and under the car for dirt build up - especially behind the front mud flaps and inner plastic splash guards, around the petrol filler pipe. In the rear mud guard, the rear cargo panels of wagons and Brumbies, the rear sill panel of Brumbies and the front valance panel below the windscreen. On MYs, check the front windscreen drain holes about 80mm in from the bottom corner under the seal. If the front windscreen of your L-Series needs replacing, get the job done professionally as paint can be scratched off when removing the old, bonded‑in windscreen and if this is not treated property then rusting may occur further down the track.

Dave Martin SCI 180