Safety Tip ......... Vehicle Recovery

Recovery is a subject that can be an art in itself but for those who aren't into 'Burn, Bash, Bury' type driving, I'll stick to the basics.

Self recovery - different approach, conditioning surfaces, etc has been covered in earlier articles so let's assume the vehicle is stuck - won't move at all under it's own power.

Equipment to carry - Penfold Pack is basic - you should have a tow rope, Snatch Strap and D shackles, but if you travel alone, also include a hand winch - the ratchet type from accessory shops is okay, a length of strong (preferable hemp) rope, say 20 metres and a short rope or web sling (1-2 metres). A bull bag could be useful and so is a screw jack (the one with the vehicle is only useful for changing a flat).

In a Suba, forget chains, wire ropes, Tirfor winches, high lift jacks and sand mats - they are too heavy and bulky - they will cause more stoppages than they cure.

Getting through

In a convoy there is back-up so you tend to be more adventurous - the Trip Leader can easily be pulled back out, or if one vehicle has made it through, it can tow the next one and so on, usually a snatch is sufficient,

On your own you have to decide a) if you think you can make it, b) is it worth going past this point, particularly if you have to return the same way? c) are you experienced enough to tackle recovery? D) do you have the right gear, finally are you within reach of help if something goes wrong?

Getting back out

Means you have decided not to go on (at least on that course). In convoy again, probably a snatch or a bit of straight forward winching from a bigger vehicle. On your own it becomes a safety issue so next bit applies.

Recovery

In convoy, either forward or backward recovery is acceptable - then the situation can be assessed - usually by the Trip Leader. On your own you must decide whether to recover forward, and take an alternative line, or track, to get out, or to recover backwards, knowing that the ground you have just come from is safe - for example if you have slid off the track sideways into a ditch - it may be safer to winch yourself along the ditch to a shallower spot rather than winch out backwards if the vehicle might roll over. If you are literally on your own - (no passengers) remember that winching usually involves some assistance by driving - and you can't hand winch and drive at the same time.

Use of equipment

Tow Rope

Is what it says - for towing - a device for attaching two vehicles when one is disabled - using a tow rope to unbog or recover puts far more strain than is safe so use it correctly ie when the towed vehicle would normally be able to drive itself if not disabled, for example - getting a drowned car out of water so it can be restarted.

Wire or chains

Should only be used in conjunction with a winch or as an anchor - with no stretch to absorb shock it will easily break the towing points and in doing so will become a lethal missile - NEVER - tow with a wire or chain.

'D' Shackles

Critically important pieces of equipment. The pin should be attached to the tow point and the loop bit is where you attach the rope, wire, chain or snatch. The idea is to prevent chafing from sharp edges or over loading (a rope with 20 strands will only use 10 or so on a 'D' shackle but as little as 2 or 3 around a transit slot). 'D' shackles are not designed to have a rope sliding through them - that is the purpose of a snatch-block, but with careful and lightweight use they make a substitute (all be it poor) in emergency use.

Snatch Strap

I kept this until last because it is the best invention since the inception of 4 wheel driving. Made of a nylon type material and woven diagonally into a web section it not only stretches (great for absorbing shock) but in doing so it stores kinetic energy - sometimes as much as the towing power of a vehicle - in other words a vehicle can exert nearly twice as much tow power using a Snatch Strap.

Snatch Straps need to be used with care - there are several 'weights' available from the ones the club sells for Subaru use right up to Mack Truck versions. The big ones will not work successfully on the back of a Suba - while a small one will break if used by a big vehicle. Dirt will cause chafing so keep it clean and dry, whilst any damage to the strap means it should be scrapped - never tie a broken strap, never run it over anything sharp and only use 'D' Shackles to connect it to anything else. Do not hang it on open tow 'hooks' as it could fly off. If you have open hooks fit the spring 'leaf' to them for safety.

To use a snatch strap - attach the ends to 'approved' points on each vehicle reverse the towing vehicle back to half the strap length. On command of the driver of the 'dead' car (or an appointed person in charge) - the towing vehicle should gently move off (as if there was no tow rope) and the towed driver should use engine power to assist. Should this not work, check if any obstruction to the dead car could be moved or minimised. Do not try increasing power beyond the strength of the strap. Sometimes, if the towed car is held by suction and the strap can be held stretched and the dead car rocked to release the suction. Obviously care needed in case it releases suddenly. Another use for the Snatch Strap is in solo recovery, as I mentioned, you can't drive and winch on your own, but if you attach a hand winch to a strap and stretch it, you may be able to drive the car out using 'stretch assist'.

If you own a power winch you should make sure you know how to use it. If you are winching yourself out, make sure the hook is well anchored - on another vehicle, a tree (well protected and with a sling), or with a ground anchor (boat sand anchor, log or spare wheel buried in ground).

Chains or wire ropes can be used to gain extra length, or to anchor a stationary winch vehicle, but do not use Snatch Straps with power winches or Tirfors. If the dead vehicle is in danger of falling over - a second rope can be attached high on the uphill side (door pillars on Subas are a possibility) and tied to a tree, but be careful that the recovery pull does not put extra strain on the side rope (adjust position and/or tension as recovery proceeds).

Other tricks

• Most front tow points are not in the centre of the car - use the one furthest from the towing vehicle to assist in bringing the two vehicles to a straight line.

• Much less power needed to pull a car straight rather than sideways - arrange the towing vehicle so that both vehicles travel straight, or if winching - a snatch block can be used to get the car round a 'corner'.

• A long rope can be made into a 'Spanish Windlass' by doubling it. A stout log or spade handle can then be inserted halfway and the ropes twisted, resulting in a shortening effect - note - doubtful safety and not good for the rope.

• A winch or tow over a crest will pull the towed vehicle downwards - place logs or spare wheels under the rope on the crest to counteract.

Safety

The first consideration in all scenarios.

• Remove all passengers and loose luggage.

• Keep bystanders as far away as the length of any rope, strap or cable will reach.

• One person to be in charge - everyone else shut up!

• Only attach towing devices to approved points - never use bullbars, bodywork, roof racks etc.

• Make sure everybody involved is working to the same plan.

• Do no use any rope, strap or cable that is damaged.

• Do not take unnecessary risks or insist that another member exceed his/her ability or experience.

• Try to drive in such a way that this entire article wasn't needed!

Nicko

See Also:  Safe Winching - The Borneo Lesson

Disclaimer: Technical information given or disclosed in this website is given with the best intent and is advisory only. No responsibility is taken by the the Subaru 4WDrive Club of Queensland or its members for any damage or injury caused by any vehicle modifications made, or by the use of any products or the adoption of any procedures mentioned in this website.